Riesling "GG" KALKOFEN
Jahrgang:
2016
Produzent:
von Winning
Land:
Deutschland
Region:
Pfalz
Abfüllung:
75cl
Traubensorten:
| 100% | Riesling |
Lagerfähigkeit:
2036
Ausschanktemperatur:
6°-8°- C
Artikelnummer:
1963
CHF 33.00 inkl. MWST
Degu-Notiz/Weinbeschrieb
91 Punkte David Schildknecht auf VINOUS.com
2016 Riesling Deidesheimer Kalkofen Grosses Gewächs
Stephan Attmann and vineyard manager Joachim Jaillet began harvesting in the last week of September 2016, but picking continued all the way through October, with the Grosse Gewächse benefiting from plenty of cool weather. Alcohol levels in the finished wines are moderate, with all of the Grosse Gewächse weighing in at 12-13% and even at the upper end conveying no sense of heaviness, let alone heat. The influence of oak – a perpetual topic in assessments of Von Winning wines, especially by those who are critical of them – is perhaps worth yet another clarification. Yes, new wood sometimes makes itself known in Von Winning Grosse Gewächse – all of which are now raised in 500-liter casks – to a degree unfamiliar from top German Rieslings prior to the past decade. But I very rarely experience one of their Rieslings in which the wood significantly dries out the primary juiciness, and aromatically it is rarely awkward or ill-integrated even when the wines are tasted, as I usually do, soon after bottling. Moreover, in 2016 the barrels for Von Winning Grosse Gewächse are all second- or third-use, not new. And of course, when it comes to use of new and newish oak, Von Winning now has considerable company from other estates – especially but not only in the Pfalz – due to a widespread need to renew really old casks combined with an increasingly relaxed attitude toward oak influence and a penchant for at least supplementing the traditional Stückfässer and Halbstücke (600-liter ovals) with 500-liter barrels. A final clarification: While the massive influx of new casks in diverse sizes (but mostly 500-liter) that accompanied Von Winning’s renaissance has ebbed, I neither see nor taste any indication that these vessels will be allowed to remotely approach the venerable ages familiar from an earlier era. Rather, it appears that the average age of cask will continue to be much younger than prevailed long-term in any German Riesling cellar prior to 2010, with barrels being renewed on a regular basis, just not in the wholesale fashion that prevailed here in 2008-2010, when Attmann was eager to literally clear out dead wood and take advantage of the blank check that proprietor Achim Niederberger had given him for so doing.
2016 Riesling Deidesheimer Kalkofen Grosses Gewächs
Stephan Attmann and vineyard manager Joachim Jaillet began harvesting in the last week of September 2016, but picking continued all the way through October, with the Grosse Gewächse benefiting from plenty of cool weather. Alcohol levels in the finished wines are moderate, with all of the Grosse Gewächse weighing in at 12-13% and even at the upper end conveying no sense of heaviness, let alone heat. The influence of oak – a perpetual topic in assessments of Von Winning wines, especially by those who are critical of them – is perhaps worth yet another clarification. Yes, new wood sometimes makes itself known in Von Winning Grosse Gewächse – all of which are now raised in 500-liter casks – to a degree unfamiliar from top German Rieslings prior to the past decade. But I very rarely experience one of their Rieslings in which the wood significantly dries out the primary juiciness, and aromatically it is rarely awkward or ill-integrated even when the wines are tasted, as I usually do, soon after bottling. Moreover, in 2016 the barrels for Von Winning Grosse Gewächse are all second- or third-use, not new. And of course, when it comes to use of new and newish oak, Von Winning now has considerable company from other estates – especially but not only in the Pfalz – due to a widespread need to renew really old casks combined with an increasingly relaxed attitude toward oak influence and a penchant for at least supplementing the traditional Stückfässer and Halbstücke (600-liter ovals) with 500-liter barrels. A final clarification: While the massive influx of new casks in diverse sizes (but mostly 500-liter) that accompanied Von Winning’s renaissance has ebbed, I neither see nor taste any indication that these vessels will be allowed to remotely approach the venerable ages familiar from an earlier era. Rather, it appears that the average age of cask will continue to be much younger than prevailed long-term in any German Riesling cellar prior to 2010, with barrels being renewed on a regular basis, just not in the wholesale fashion that prevailed here in 2008-2010, when Attmann was eager to literally clear out dead wood and take advantage of the blank check that proprietor Achim Niederberger had given him for so doing.